New England Clam Chowder

Cook the bacon lardons in a large heavy pot over medium heat until the fat renders and the bacon is lightly crisp, about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside, leaving the fat in the pot.

Add onion and celery to the bacon fat and cook until softened, about 5 minutes. Stir in flour and cook for 1 minute. Gradually pour in the stock, whisking to prevent lumps. Add potatoes and thyme, bring to a simmer, and cook for 15 minutes until the potatoes are just tender.

Pour in the cream and milk. Add the clams (and their juice if using canned). Simmer gently for 5 minutes — do not boil hard or the clams will turn rubbery. Season well with salt and white pepper.

Remove the thyme sprigs. Ladle into warm bowls and top with the reserved crispy bacon. Serve immediately with thick slices of sourdough for dipping.