Fresh Mexican Salsa Trio with Tortilla Chips

Both the salsa roja asada and the salsa verde use charred, roasted vegetables as their base — start both at the same time to save effort. Set the oven grill (broiler) to its highest setting, or preheat the oven to its maximum temperature (240–250°C / 475°F). Line two baking trays with foil. For the salsa roja: place the whole tomatoes, onion wedges, unpeeled garlic cloves, and the fresh serrano or jalapeño on one tray. Drizzle with the olive oil and a pinch of salt. For the salsa verde: place the husked, rinsed tomatillos (halved if large), the jalapeños, onion wedges, and unpeeled garlic cloves on the second tray — no oil needed, the tomatillos have enough moisture. Place both trays under the grill or in the very hot oven. Grill or roast for 15–20 minutes, turning everything once halfway through, until the tomatoes are blistered, collapsed, and charred in patches; the tomatillos are soft, slightly charred, and have released their juices; the onion is softened and charred at the edges; and the garlic is soft inside its skin. The char is not a mistake — it is the source of the smoky, complex depth that makes these salsas taste roasted rather than raw. While the vegetables roast, soak the dried ancho or guajillo chillies for the salsa roja in a small bowl of just-boiled water for 15 minutes until soft and pliable. Remove the stems and seeds before soaking if you have not already done so. Remove both trays from the oven and leave to cool for 10 minutes. Squeeze the roasted garlic cloves out of their skins — the flesh will be soft and jammy.

Make both cooked salsas while the vegetables are still warm — they blend more easily and the flavours meld better. For the salsa roja asada: drain the rehydrated dried chillies, reserving 3 tablespoons of the soaking liquid. Place the roasted tomatoes and all their juices, the roasted onion, the squeezed-out roasted garlic, the fresh roasted chilli, and the drained rehydrated dried chillies into a blender or food processor. Add the reserved soaking liquid. Blend to a rough, textured purée — not completely smooth; the salsa should have some body and visible texture. Taste and season with salt and lime juice. The salsa roja should be deep brick red, smoky, slightly sweet from the dried chillies, and moderately hot. If it tastes flat, add more salt; if it tastes too sharp, add a pinch of sugar; if it needs more heat, add a small piece of the fresh chilli. For the salsa verde: place the roasted tomatillos and all their juices, the roasted jalapeños, the roasted onion, and the squeezed-out roasted garlic into the blender. Add the fresh coriander and the lime juice. Blend to a rough purée — again, not completely smooth; a little texture is desirable. Taste and season with salt. The salsa verde should be bright, tangy, herbaceous, and moderately hot — the tomatillo's natural acidity is its defining character. Both salsas can be made up to 3 days ahead and refrigerated; they improve overnight as the flavours develop.

Make the pico de gallo last — it is a raw salsa and is best made as close to serving as possible, though it can sit for up to 30 minutes before the tomatoes begin to release too much liquid. Halve each tomato and use a teaspoon to scoop out the seeds and watery core — this step is not optional; leaving the seeds in makes the pico watery and loose within minutes. Finely dice the tomato flesh into pieces no larger than 5mm. Finely dice the white onion and the jalapeño. Roughly chop the coriander. Combine everything in a bowl, add the lime juice, and season generously with flaky sea salt. Stir gently to combine — do not crush the tomatoes. Taste and adjust: more lime for brightness, more jalapeño for heat, more salt if it tastes flat. Leave to sit for 10 minutes before serving so the flavours come together. For the tortilla chips: preheat the oven to 200°C (180°C fan / 400°F / Gas 6) if it is not already hot from the roasting step. Cut each corn tortilla into 6 or 8 triangles. Spread in a single layer across two large baking trays — no overlapping. Brush lightly with oil on both sides and season with fine sea salt. Bake for 12–15 minutes, turning once halfway through, until golden, completely crisp, and beginning to colour at the edges. Leave to cool on the trays for 5 minutes — they crisp up further as they cool.

Serve all three salsas together as a trio — the contrast between them is the point of the dish. Transfer each salsa to its own small bowl or ramekin: the pico de gallo is chunky and bright red with flecks of green coriander and white onion; the salsa roja is a smooth-ish deep brick-red purée; the salsa verde is a rough, slightly textured green purée. Arrange the three bowls on a large board or platter with the baked tortilla chips piled alongside or in a separate basket. The three salsas should be visually distinct — their different colours, textures, and consistencies tell the story of what they are before anyone has tasted them. Serve immediately while the chips are still warm and crisp. The two roasted salsas can be made well ahead and brought to room temperature before serving; the pico de gallo should be made the same day. Label the salsas if serving guests who may not know them — pico de gallo (fresh), salsa roja (roasted, smoky), salsa verde (tomatillo, tangy) — so people know what they are reaching for.