Mediterranean Herb-Grilled Fish

Pat the fish completely dry inside and out with kitchen paper — a dry surface is essential for achieving crisp, charred skin on the grill; a wet fish steams rather than chars and the skin will stick and tear. Using a sharp knife, cut 3–4 diagonal slashes through the skin and into the flesh on each side of each fish, cutting about 1cm deep. The slashes serve two purposes: they allow the olive oil rub and seasoning to penetrate into the flesh rather than sitting only on the surface, and they help the fish cook evenly by allowing heat to reach the thicker parts of the body. Season the cavity of each fish generously with salt and black pepper. Stuff each cavity with a few lemon rounds, several slices of garlic, a generous bundle of flat-leaf parsley, a sprig or two of thyme, and a sprig of rosemary. The herbs and lemon inside the cavity perfume the flesh from within as the fish cooks — their steam and fragrance permeate the flesh in a way that surface seasoning alone cannot achieve. In a small bowl, mix together the olive oil, grated garlic, dried oregano, sweet paprika, ground cumin, salt, and black pepper to make a loose paste. Rub this mixture all over the outside of each fish, working it into the slashes and over every surface. Leave to marinate at room temperature for 15–20 minutes while the grill heats.

Heat a barbecue grill, griddle pan, or heavy cast-iron grill pan to the highest possible heat — the grill must be genuinely very hot before the fish goes on. A grill that is not hot enough will cause the fish to stick, the skin to tear, and the flesh to steam rather than char. Brush the grill bars or griddle surface generously with olive oil immediately before adding the fish. Lay the fish on the grill and do not touch them, press them, or move them for 7–8 minutes for a 400–500g fish. The fish will release naturally from the grill when the skin is properly charred and crisped — if you try to move it before this point, the skin will stick and tear. After 7–8 minutes, check by gently lifting one edge with a fish slice: if it releases cleanly with a charred, crisp skin, it is ready to turn. If it resists, leave it for another minute and check again. The skin on the cooked side should be deeply charred with dark grill marks and completely crisp.

Carefully slide a wide fish slice under each fish and turn in one confident, decisive movement — hesitation causes the fish to break. Cook the second side for 6–7 minutes until the skin is equally charred and crisp and the flesh is cooked through. To check for doneness, insert a thin skewer or the tip of a knife into the thickest part of the fish, just behind the head, and hold it there for 3 seconds. Remove and touch the tip to the inside of your wrist — if it feels hot, the fish is cooked through; if it feels warm, give it another 2 minutes. Alternatively, press the flesh gently through the skin at the thickest point — cooked fish will feel firm and will flake slightly under gentle pressure; undercooked fish will feel soft and springy. The eyes of the fish will have turned completely white and the flesh will pull away from the bone cleanly when the fish is done. Total grill time for a 400–500g fish is 14–16 minutes; a larger 600–700g fish will need 18–20 minutes total.

Transfer the grilled fish to a warm serving platter and leave to rest for 3–4 minutes — even fish benefits from a brief rest, which allows the juices to redistribute and the flesh to relax slightly, making it easier to serve cleanly from the bone. Scatter the fresh coriander or extra flat-leaf parsley over the fish. Arrange the lemon wedges alongside. Bring the platter to the table and serve the fish whole — each person takes their own fish, or the fish are filleted at the table by lifting the top fillet cleanly off the bone, then removing the spine to reveal the bottom fillet. To fillet at the table: run a knife along the backbone from head to tail, then slide the knife under the top fillet and lift it away in one piece. Lift the tail, peel the spine away from the bottom fillet, and discard. Squeeze lemon generously over the flesh just before eating. Serve with a simple green salad or steamed rice.