Thai Coconut Pandan Jelly (Lod Chong-Inspired)

If using fresh pandan leaves, blend 6 leaves with 150ml of the water in a blender for 1 minute, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing the pulp firmly to extract as much vivid green liquid as possible. Top up with plain water to reach 350ml total. If using pandan extract, simply combine it with the 350ml of water and stir — the colour will be a deep, electric green. In a medium, heavy-based saucepan, whisk together the rice flour, tapioca starch, and pinch of salt. Gradually pour in the pandan water, whisking constantly to prevent lumps, until a completely smooth, thin, bright green batter forms. The combination of rice flour and tapioca starch is deliberate and important — rice flour alone produces strands that are too firm and brittle; tapioca starch alone produces strands that are too soft and sticky. Together they give the lod chong its signature texture: smooth, slightly chewy, and tender, with enough body to hold its strand shape without being rubbery.

Place the saucepan over medium heat and cook the batter, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon or heatproof spatula, for 8–12 minutes. The mixture will begin to thicken after about 4 minutes and will progress through several stages — first a thin, pourable batter, then a thicker, glossy sauce, then a very thick, stiff, translucent paste that pulls away from the sides of the pan and holds its shape when the spoon is dragged through it. This final stage is what you are aiming for. The paste must be cooked all the way through — undercooked paste will produce strands that are gummy and opaque in the centre rather than smooth and translucent. Stir without stopping throughout; the mixture scorches quickly on the base of the pan if left unattended even briefly. Remove from the heat the moment the paste is thick, glossy, and pulling cleanly from the sides of the pan.

Have a large bowl of cold water ready beside the hob. Working quickly while the paste is still very hot and pliable — it stiffens rapidly as it cools and becomes impossible to press through — spoon the hot paste into a colander with medium holes (approximately 4–5mm diameter) held directly over the bowl of cold water. Press the paste firmly through the holes using the back of a large spoon or a flexible spatula, pushing in firm, steady strokes. The paste will emerge from the underside of the colander as long, smooth, vivid green strands that drop directly into the cold water below, where they set instantly on contact. Work in batches if needed, scraping the paste from the sides of the colander and pressing through until all the paste has been extruded. The cold water bath stops the cooking immediately and prevents the strands from sticking together. Leave the strands in the cold water for at least 5 minutes. If you do not have a colander with the right hole size, a potato ricer, a piping bag fitted with a round nozzle, or a mouli with a medium disc all work well as alternatives.

Pour the coconut milk into a small saucepan. Add the coconut sugar and ¼ teaspoon of fine salt. Warm over medium heat, stirring until the sugar and salt dissolve completely — do not boil. Taste: the coconut milk should be gently sweet and noticeably, pleasantly salty. The salt is the defining characteristic of the coconut milk in lod chong — it is not a background note but a deliberate, prominent flavour that contrasts with the sweetness of the sugar and the fragrance of the pandan. Remove from the heat and leave to cool to room temperature, then refrigerate until cold — at least 30 minutes. Drain the pandan jelly strands from the cold water bath and divide between four glasses or bowls. Add a generous mound of crushed ice to each serving. Pour the cold, sweet, salted coconut milk over the ice and strands — it should pool around the base and partially submerge the strands. Tuck a fresh pandan leaf into each glass as a garnish if using. Serve immediately while the ice is still whole and the coconut milk is cold.