Chinese Vegetable Fried Rice

The single most important rule of fried rice is to use rice that has been cooked the day before and refrigerated overnight. Freshly cooked rice is too moist and too soft — it steams rather than fries in the wok, clumps together, and turns the dish stodgy. Cold, day-old rice has dried out slightly in the fridge, which means each grain is firm, separate, and ready to absorb the flavours of the wok without breaking down. Cook the rice the evening before: rinse it, cook it in the usual way, spread it out on a tray to cool completely, then refrigerate uncovered for at least 8 hours. When you take it out of the fridge, break up any clumps with your fingers so the grains are as separate as possible before they go into the wok. If you are short on time, spread freshly cooked rice on a baking tray and put it in the freezer for 30 minutes — it is not quite as good as overnight rice, but it works.

Place a wok or the largest, heaviest frying pan you have over the highest heat your hob will produce. Leave it to heat for at least 2 minutes until it is smoking — this is not optional. A properly hot wok is what creates the characteristic slightly smoky, caramelised flavour of restaurant-quality fried rice, known in Chinese cooking as wok hei, meaning 'breath of the wok'. Add 2 tablespoons of the neutral oil and swirl to coat. Add the white parts of the spring onions, the minced garlic, and the grated ginger all at once and stir-fry for 30 seconds, moving constantly — they should sizzle aggressively and turn fragrant immediately. Add the diced carrots and baby corn and stir-fry for 2–3 minutes, tossing continuously, until the carrots are just beginning to soften at the edges but still have a little bite. The vegetables should be catching colour in places — do not reduce the heat to prevent this; the charring is part of the flavour.

Add the remaining tablespoon of oil to the wok, then add all the cold rice at once. Press it down against the hot surface of the wok and leave it untouched for 30–45 seconds — this allows the bottom layer to begin to crisp and colour, which adds texture and depth. Then toss and stir vigorously, breaking up any remaining clumps and coating every grain in the oil and aromatics. Continue stir-frying for 2–3 minutes, pressing and tossing alternately, until the rice is heated through and some grains have taken on a lightly golden colour. Add the mangetout and defrosted peas and toss through for 1 minute — they need very little cooking. Pour the coconut aminos and rice vinegar around the edge of the wok rather than directly onto the rice — this lets them hit the hot metal first and caramelise slightly before mixing in, which deepens the flavour. Season with white pepper and toss everything together thoroughly. Taste and adjust salt — coconut aminos is less salty than soy sauce, so you may need a pinch of fine salt.

Scatter the green parts of the spring onions over the rice and toss through off the heat — adding them at the very end preserves their fresh, sharp flavour and bright green colour. Taste one final time and adjust seasoning if needed. Divide between four bowls or plates. Scatter fresh coriander and sliced red chilli over the top if using. Serve immediately with lime wedges on the side — a squeeze of lime over the rice just before eating lifts the whole dish and adds a brightness that balances the savoury depth of the coconut aminos. Fried rice does not hold well; it is at its best the moment it comes out of the wok.